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History Sign: Conflict at Pistol River

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This is Oregon History Sign, P22. Located roughly 10 miles south of Gold Beach, Oregon.

Pistol River is named after James Mace lost his pistol in the river during a skirmish in the Rogue River Indian Wars in 1853. The exact spot of this pistol dropping is unknown as far as I’ve been able to find.

Conflict at Pistol River 1024x768 History Sign: Conflict at Pistol River history

“During the early 1850s hundreds of miners and settlers poured into southwest Oregon and onto Indian lands staking claims and establishing farms. The clash of cultural attitudes toward the ownership and use of natural resources led to the Rogue River Indian Wars of 1853-56. War came to the coast in March of 1856, when the “Tu-tu-tuni” attacked Ellensburg, a settlement at the mouth of the Rogue River (present-day Gold Beach). A party of 34 armed civilians, led by vigilante George H. Abbott, raced northward along the coast from Crescent City, California in advance of regular army troops dispatched to assist survivors who had assembled just north of Ellensburg at Fort Miner. Local “Chet-less-chun-dunn” villagers responded with armed resistance near this site holding the party at bay behind driftwood for several days until army troops arrived. This conflict led to the tracking and killing of those Indians who participated in the battle. A few “Chet-less-chun-dunne” still reside in communities along the Oregon and northern California coast.”

There is little other reference to this fight anywhere. The three main books I use for searching Oregon History are disappointingly mum about not only this battle specifically, but the Rogue River Indian Wars in general.

Oregon Historical Quarterly, Vol 4, No1 states “On March 8th, 1856, Captain Abbott had a skirmish with the Chetco Indians at Pistol River. He lost several men. The Indians had his small force completely surrounded when Captain Ord and Captain Jones with one hundred and twelve regular troops came to his relief. They charged and drove the Indians away with heavy loss.”

It goes on about the entire War, but still in fairly general terms. Having been written in 1903, it’s possible that many readers were involved, or knew someone who was. There are small bits of self righteousness included, but culturally, the White supremacy over Indians was pretty much a given at that time.

Mary’s Peak

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Mary’s Peak is about 20 miles west of Corvallis. It’s in the Siuslaw National Forest and has several great hiking trails.

Parker Falls 1024x824 Marys Peak landscape

What is awesome about the Peak is that it’s the tallest point in the central Coast Range. As such on a nice day you can see the Pacific Ocean, the Willamette Valley, Mt. Rainier, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Jefferson.

Marys Peak 1024x768 Marys Peak landscape

The peak is also home to many different wildflowers and several unique species of plants. Unfortunately too late in the year and you miss all the flowers. Even though the view is still pretty nice.
Top of Marys Peak 1024x768 Marys Peak landscape

The origin of the name is not 100% known, but it’s most likely named after the nearby Mary’s River, which has it’s own history of names.

Danford Balch Homesite and “Witches Castle”

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In Northwest Portland just Northwest of where the Lewis and Clark Exposition was held is Danford Balch’s Homesite (or as the sign in the park says “Lower Macleay Park.”) This area has had been the source of some major news items over the years.

Danford Balch Homesite Sign

As this history sign notes, this piece of land was owned by Danford Balch was hanged for the murder of his (against his wishes,) son-in-law and neighbor, Mortimer Stump on October 17, 1859. Danford, his wife Mary Jane, and their nine children emigrated from Ohio, then Iowa in 1847. Legally the Balch’s took out a claim in 1850, but as Oregon was not technically a State yet and the land claim process was in somewhat of a mess, they most likely had already filed a claim in 1847 or 1848 for this same piece of land in the Territorial Government’s records.

This same uncertainty over who had the power to grant and enforce land claims led to Oregon’s first murder by Nimrod O’Kelly.

The Balch’s lived here with only some minor feuding between themselves and the nearby Stump family until 1857 or 1858. It’s recorded that Danford was a bit of a drunk and this most likely led to the feud. The Stump’s oldest son Mortimer fell in love with the Balch’s oldest daughter Anna. Another version of the story says that the Stumps had a homestead in Vancouver Washington and Mortimer was a hired hand. My guess is that Mortimer himself owned the land in Vancouver, while his parents owned the land adjacent to the Balchs. What is known for sure is that Anna eloped with Mortimer on November 4th, 1858 and moved with him to Vancouver.

On November 18th, 1858 at the Stark Street Ferry, Danford chanced upon members of the Stump family including Mortimer. His drinking had increased and in a fit of rage he “accidentally” shot and killed Mortimer by simultaneously discharging both barrels of his shot gun. He was disarmed and jailed to be held until the spring for trial.

In that day, Judges were actually nomadic. They would spend a few days in each city dealing with issues as needed. This allowed those who would be witnesses in cases to continue living at home and being able to work on their farms. On a more practical note for the Territorial Government and later the State and Federal Governments, it saved money as the Judges would call upon prominent locals to house them while they were in the neighborhood. They were frequently reimbursed for this service but for many years it was cheaper and better for everyone involved then to have a central justice system. During this time there were also some issues with Judges resigning and the position being unfilled for months at a time. This led to long periods between trials and in some cases even the start and finish of the trial.

As Mortimer’s trial date and the Judge drew nearer, he managed to escape the jail he was in. Being built of wood, coupled with Oregon’s especially rainy weather during the winter of 1858-1859, the wood had rotted enough for him to easily break out. Instead of fleeing the State he hid out on his own land until he was recaptured on July 23, 1859. He was no doubt housed in the new prison that the City of Portland had recently completed and remained there until he was hung on October 17, 1859 in front of a crowd of 500 people. This marked the first legal public execution in the Oregon Territory.

But that did not end the story of this piece of land. It passed through several hand,s finally being purchased by Donald Macleay, President of the Portland Board of Trade. The story goes that in 1897 he was slightly upset about the taxes owed to the City of Portland on this parcel of land. In a fit of rage, he said that he’d rather GIVE the land to the City as a park then to pay the taxes on it. The Deputy Assessor, L. S. Maxwell, called his bluff. Three days later to mark the 60th Anniversary of Queen Victoria’s Reign, he became the first to donate the land to the City of Portland for park use only.

After the Lewis and Clark Exposition ended in 1906, an enterprising scoundrel named Lafe Fence viewed the site with some small amount of speculation. The Exposition had been built around a shallow lake called Guild’s Lake. As the land was now mostly vacant to his eyes he decided to fill in the lake and create new land for the City of Portland to expand northwards. He apparently had good intentions but forgot to actually ask permission of anyone.

Balch Gulch Flume

He built the above flume (which was used as a walkway up the Gulch for many years afterwards,) and using hydraulic pressure hoses, simply washed large amounts of dirt down Balch Gulch down the hill and into Guild’s Lake. There is no record that I’ve seen as to why he wasn’t stopped, but it’s doubtful that people didn’t notice this was happening.

Afterwards there was a lawsuit but it was dropped. Most likely the lawsuit was dropped because Lafe had no money to pay damages and even then the deed was already done. Other nearby property owners ended up also donating land that was ruined and the seed of Forest Park was created. If you look carefully while walking up the trail, you can still see the damage in bedrock and exposed banks in the walkway and in the stream beside.

The next major event in this location was the building of the trail and a public restroom by the WPA in 1937. The trail was built with interlocked stones to shore up the sides, covered with compacted gravel and then paved with asphalt. A small two-story stone building was built about 1/4 of a mile up the trail to act as restrooms, picnic area and Ranger Station. It served as such until the Columbus Day Storm on October 12th, 1962 damaged the roof of the building. The roof was completely removed 1966 and the building dismantled leaving only a stone shell.

Stone House

Stone House2

Stone House3

Now days the building acts as host to high school keggers and intrepid Ghost Hunters who believe that the building is a 1600′s Indian trading post, Witches haunt it, or that Danford Balch was hung here and his spirit is still around. Despite the stories, the building, and trails are not only great photos, but an awesome place to hike around and commune with nature.

Fort Yamhill Blockhouse and Joel Palmer House

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This is the second building left from Fort Yamhill. After the Fort was disbanded and sold, the Blockhouse was moved nearby and used as a storage shed.

Fort Yamhill Blockhouse

It remained as such until 1911 when it was moved to Dayton, Oregon and setup in the city park. There is some talk about moving it back to Fort Yamhill when rebuilding of the fort starts.

What is most interesting about this blockhouse is it’s odd construction. The second floor is offset at ninety degrees from the first floor. There is no mention in any literature that has been found yet, even the Fort Yamhill military records, as to why this building was built this way. There doesn’t seem to be any records of any other blockhouses at other Forts built in the same design either. The design is slightly more useful then normal as it removes any blind spots during attacks.

Fort Yamhill History Plaque

Nearby, and most likely not a real coincidence, the Joel Palmer house is nearby. As Joel Palmer was the first Superintendent of Indian Affairs and requested the building of Fort Yamhill to protect the Grande Rhonde Indian reservation, this nearby plaque says it’s a memorial to him.

Joel Palmer House

The house is now a restaurant and has a nice wine selection now.

Dayton, Oregon also has a huge number of other historic houses, many of which are on the National Historic Register.

Oregon Ghost Towns and other historical locations

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This is a major update of my original Google Maps “Historic Oregon” file.

Download here

About forty new towns were added. I’ve also separated them out by Category instead of just alphabetical listing. More battles and military sites have been added, along with some general spell checking and links to web pages with information about the site.

Fort Yamhill, Polk County, Oregon

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Fort Yamhill sits in Polk County, just a few miles east of Spirit Mountain Casino, and an easy day trip from Portland. It gets it’s name from the South Fork of the Yamhill River, which was named after a tribe of local Native Americans in the area – the Kalapuya or more commonly and familiarly spelled here in Oregon, Calapooya. Many of them were moved to the Grand Ronde Reservation in 1855.

At the request of Joel Palmer, who was Superintendent of Indian Affairs at the time, the Fort was built in 1856 to keep Indians on the reservation. It’s location on top of a hill, along the Killimuck, was extremely advantageous for this reason. Realistically it protected the Indians from the Settlers more then it protected the Settlers from the Indians.

During the American Civil War it was fortified by Union Volunteers from California. One of the most famous Oregon History books, All Quiet on the Yamhill: The Civil War in Oregon, was written by Lieutenant Royal A. Bensell, who was stationed here during that time. It’s probably one of the best first hand accounts of early Oregon, and the only one directly related to Military life during the Civil War in Oregon.

Fort Yamhill Flagpole thumb Fort Yamhill, Polk County, Oregon buildingsUntil very recently the location was on private property. It became open to the public in 2006 and is now an official Oregon State Park. Lieutenant Bensell mentioned the Oregon Weather more then once, especially the low laying fog and rain. I fortunately, or unfortunately encountered the same on the day I was there. The picture above is standing about where the Officers Barracks were, looking south to the flag pole. Bensell mentioned this exactly, only being able to see as far as the flagpole from the front porch of his Barracks .

Fort Yamhill Map thumb Fort Yamhill, Polk County, Oregon buildings
Here is a map in the park, based on the original Quarter Master’s sketches. The Officers Barracks were at the North side of the Fort, at the top of the hill. On the west side were the enlisted Barracks, and the important buildings were on the east end.

Fort Yamhill Officer s Barraks thumb Fort Yamhill, Polk County, Oregon buildings

Fort Yamhill Officer s Barraks2 thumb Fort Yamhill, Polk County, Oregon buildings
It is said that General Philip H. Sheridan was stationed here as a Lieutenant and that this building was his barracks. It was moved to the southern end of the Fort it and all the other buildings were auctioned off in 1866 and added on to to become a farm house. It, along with the original Blockhouse that has been moved to Dayton Oregon are all that remains of the Fort. Unfortunately, this is more then remains of any of the other dozen forts in Oregon except for Fort Stevens of course. It’s currently being deconstructed, and will most likely be moved back to it’s original position in the future by the Park Service.


Cottage Grove Museums

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The city of Cottage Grove in the gorgeous Willamette Valley of Oregon is typical of the middle of Oregon. It’s a small, quiet, yet extremely historic town.

Octogonal Church Museum thumb Cottage Grove Museums historyAs such despite it’s rather small population, it has two fairly good museums. Being fairly important in the Gold mining days and with the Bohemia Mining district near by history practically seeps through the town.

This museum is described as the “Cottage Grove Museum,” and supposedly has a good collection of logging, mining, and Native American artifacts. There is an old steam donkey and some other miscellaneous and large logging equipment around the back side. I unfortunately do not know what is inside as it’s rather limited hours has made it impossible for me to visit.

What is interesting though is that it’s housed in a historic and unique octagonal church building. The church dates from 1897 and still sports some nice stained glass windows.

In the downtown district, which itself is rather historic is the Bohemia Mining Musuem. As it’s name states it shows the history of the nearby Bohemia Mining district and is run by the Bohemia Mine Owners Association. Again, it’s small, but the amount of information both in old news paper clippings and available via the staff is outstanding.

I highly recommend both this museum, and the BBQ place next door.


Historic Oregon presented in Google Earth

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Here is version 1.0 of my “Historic Oregon” Google Earth file. Included in this file are Ghost Towns, Locations of Historic Events, Locations of Forts and Camps, lighthouses, Missions, Indian Battles, Historical Markers, Heritage Trees(coming soon,) Shipwrecks, and Native American Tribes (coming soon too,) and remaining covered bridges. In other words, pretty much anything of historical interest.

Download here

There is about 100 hours of work into this file. It could not have been done without much dependence on the following resources:

Fort Wiki
Ghost Towns.Com
Google
Covered Bridge Society of Oregon
www.markeroni.com
National Register of Historic Places
Oregon Travel Council Heritage Programs
And most importantly, Oregon Geographic Names by Lewis A. McArthur which is based off his father’s work.

This is a HUGE file and is roughly 25% complete by my estimate so it may take a while to load. If you have any information about locations please email rick@hamell.net and I’ll add it in with proper credit. New versions will be released to this page. Please feel free to redistribute it, but I would appreciate a link back here if you do.

Note on Ghost Town Classifications.

I found this to be a very handy guide but had to expand it. I added a Class H which is the same as a Class D, but with few original buildings. I also added a number guide to give an idea of the town’s main purpose during it’s peak population.

Ghost Town Classifications:

Class A: barren site
Class B: rubble and/or roofless building ruins
Class C: standing abandoned buildings (with roofs), no population, except maybe a caretaker.
Class D: semi/near ghost towns. A small resident population, many abandoned buildings.
Class E: busy historic community, yet still much smaller than in its boom years.
Class F: Not a stand-alone class, but an addition to any of the above. This class usually designates a restored town, state park, or indicates some other “additional” status.
Class G: the town joined or was absorbed by a neighboring thriving city.
Class H: Same as Class D, with no or very few original buildings

Originating Purpose:
1.) Mineral Explotation
2.) Agriculural or Live Stock
3.) Timber
4.) Shipping or Travel Depoe, Stage Coach Station, Train Station
5.) Religious or idelogical
6.) Recreation and Service (Saloon Towns)

Thus a towns classification of B1 means an abandoned gold town with a few traces of buildings and other structures such as mine entrances.

Classifications are assigned by myself based on direct observation of the town, or best guess based on Google Maps and Internet searches. Many towns main economic activity changed multiple times during their lifetimes. In these cases the first or largest is used for the classification.

****10/13/09 Updated

I have added a HUGE amount of more information to this. Many new towns, Cemetaries, Civilian Conservation Corps Projects, Events, Early Explorers, Musuems, Native American Tribal grounds and camps, and much more. Again, please be sure to email me rick@hamell.net with any updates and corrections you might have.